Showing posts with label Fakarava. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fakarava. Show all posts

Saturday, February 17, 2007

N.Y. Times Article on the Tuamotus

Fakarava Motu

In Sunday's New York Times there is an article The Fragile Paradise That Tahiti Used to Be by Jon Bowermaster.

The premise is that the island of Tahiti has become too busy but paradise can be found on the Tuamotus, for now, before climatic changes make them uninhabitable.

What struck me as interesting was the author saying "My preference though is to sleep on the beach, which is easily done in the Tuamotus, on any of a number of motus — mini-islands made of sand washed up on the rim of the coral reef. If you are after a glimpse of paradise, sleeping in these sands offers as close to a utopian experience as possible. On Fakarava I chose a motu named Kiria on the far side of the lagoon from town. I hired a boat to drop me and made camp next to a hoa — a tidal stream running in from the sea — hanging a hammock between two coconut palms. In the mornings I would watch a squadron of frigate birds hover above the palms, floating on thermals. Beneath the hammock an army of sand crabs went about their various duties, leaving long, thin trails in the otherwise unadulterated sand. Gently pounding surf, broken by the thin coral reef crest, created a shallow aqua-blue swimming hole."

Sounds wonderful.

However, in the Visitor Information section (which may have had a different author than the article) there was no information provided as to how you could hire a boat and camp out on Kiria motu. There was also no contact information provided for the "simple pension called Chez Matilde, with cabins to rent on the beach" where he stayed on Fakarava. I searched for it but could not find any information, though places in French Polynesia often have two names, Pension This and Chez Someone. I did find a new pension in Fakarava called, by coincidence, Pension Kiria.